Your Complete Curly Hair Routine: A Step-by-Step Guide to the Curly Girl Method

If you've spent years fighting your hair instead of working with it, diffusing on high heat, brushing out your curls dry, and wondering why nothing ever quite worked, you're not alone. Most of us were never taught how to actually care for curly hair. We were handed straight-hair advice and told to make it work. Enter the curly hair routine that changed everything: the Curly Girl Method.

Created by curl expert and hairstylist Lorraine Massey and introduced in her book Curly Girl: The Handbook, the Curly Girl Method (CGM) is a framework built around a simple idea: curly hair needs moisture, gentleness, and the right ingredients to thrive. Whether your hair is loosely wavy or tightly coiled, this step by step curly hair routine will help you understand your curls, ditch what's holding them back, and build a wash day ritual that works.

What Is the Curly Girl Method?

The Curly Girl Method is a hair care approach developed by Lorraine Massey in the early 2000s. At its core, CGM is about eliminating harsh practices like rough towel-drying and daily heat styling, and ingredients like sulfate shampoos and silicone-heavy conditioners, and replacing them with gentle, moisture-focused alternatives that let your natural curl pattern shine.

What it isn’t is a strict rulebook. Think of CGM less like a diet and more like a philosophy: understand what your curls need, give it to them, and adjust as you go. The method works across the full spectrum of textured hair — wavy (types 2A–2C), curly (3A–3C), and coily (4A–4C) — making it one of the most inclusive haircare frameworks out there.

Know Your Curls Before You Start

Before you overhaul your routine, it helps to understand what you're working with. Two factors matter most: curl pattern and hair porosity.

Curl Pattern 101

Curl patterns run on a scale from 2 (wavy) to 4 (coily), with subcategories A through C indicating tightness within each group. Type 2 hair has a gentle S-wave; type 3 forms defined spirals; type 4 ranges from tightly coiled to zigzag strands. Knowing your general type helps you pick techniques — but it's actually the second factor that really drives product choice.

Hair Porosity: The Real Game-Changer

Porosity refers to how well your hair absorbs and retains moisture. Hair with low-porosity has a tightly closed cuticle, meaning moisture has a harder time getting in, but once it does, it stays. High-porosity hair has a more open cuticle, drinking up moisture quickly but losing it just as fast. Medium porosity is the sweet spot between the two.

Why does this matter? Because a product that works beautifully for high-porosity coils might leave low-porosity waves feeling weighed down and greasy. Understanding your porosity helps you choose the right conditioners, oils, and stylers from the start, saving you a lot of trial and error.

What to Ditch (and What to Swap In)

One of the most liberating parts of starting CGM is realizing that a lot of what you've been doing isn't helping your curls, and the fixes are simpler than you'd think.

Sulfate shampoos are among the biggest no-nos. Sulfates are powerful detergents that strip the scalp and hair strands of their natural oils, which leaves curly hair dry, frizzy, and prone to breakage. Swap them for a sulfate-free or low-poo (low-lather) shampoo that cleans without stripping.

Silicones, found in many conditioners and styling products, coat your hair in a way that blocks moisture from getting in over time. They can also only be removed with sulfates, which creates a frustrating cycle. Look for silicone-free products instead.

Your regular bath towel? It may be working against you. Rough terry cloth fibers create friction, which disrupts your curl pattern and causes frizz. A microfiber towel or an old cotton T-shirt does the same job with far less damage.

And while heat styling isn't completely off the table for CGM, limiting it (or switching to a diffuser on a low setting) makes a real difference in curl health over time.

Lastly, put down the brush. Dry brushing breaks up your curl clumps and causes frizz. Detangling is best done in the shower, fingers first, with plenty of conditioner as slip.

Your Curly Hair Routine, Step by Step

Here's where it all comes together. Follow this curly hair routine step by step and you'll have a repeatable wash day ritual that gets better the more consistently you do it.

Step 1: The Final Wash

Before diving into CGM, do one final clarifying wash. This removes any silicone or product buildup from your previous routine so your hair can properly absorb moisture going forward. Use a sulfate-containing clarifying shampoo for this step only, and afterwards you'll move to gentler cleansers. Think of it as clearing the slate.

Step 2: Cleanse Gently

From now on, your cleansing step gets an upgrade. A sulfate-free shampoo (low-poo) or a cleansing conditioner (co-wash) is now your go-to. Take a look at our page on the best shampoos for curly hair. Apply it to your scalp and massage with the pads of your fingers – never your nails – using small circular motions. Let the water carry it through the length of your hair rather than scrubbing your ends.

How often? It depends on your hair type. Wavy and fine hair often benefits from cleansing 2–3 times a week. Curlier and coilier types can typically be done once a week or even every 10 days. Listen to your scalp: if it feels itchy or congested, cleanse it more often.

Step 3: Condition and Detangle

This is where you give your curls what they've been craving. Apply a generous amount of conditioner from mid-lengths to ends, saturating your strands until they feel silky. Then, with your hair still slick with product, detangle with your fingers starting from the ends and working up. Follow with a wide-tooth comb if needed, but take it slow.

Leave some conditioner in rather than rinsing completely. How much you leave depends on your porosity – high-porosity hair benefits from more; low-porosity hair may prefer a lighter touch.

Step 4: Deep Condition

If your curls are dry, brittle, or prone to breakage, a weekly deep conditioning treatment is non-negotiable. Apply it generously, cover with a shower cap, and let it sit for 15–20 minutes. The heat from your scalp will help the product set.

There are two kinds of deep conditioners worth knowing: moisturizing treatments, which hydrate and soften, and protein treatments, which strengthen and repair. If your hair feels mushy or overly soft, it may need protein. If it feels dry and rough, it needs moisture. Find the best conditioners for curly hair on our dedicated page.

Step 5: Apply Leave-In and Style (LOC or LMG Method)

This is the fun part. While your hair is still soaking wet, apply your styling products using either the LOC method (Leave-in conditioner, Oil, Cream) or the LMG method (Leave-in, Mousse, Gel). The idea is to layer from lightest to heaviest texture, which will lock in moisture at each step.

Apply products by scrunching upward from ends to roots – don't rake or smooth downward, as this disrupts your natural curl formation. Raking through a small amount first to distribute product evenly is fine, but always finish with scrunching.

Applying a gel last will create what's called a "cast,” which is a crunchy coating around your curls that holds their shape while drying. Don't panic when you touch your hair and it feels hard. That's the aim. You can find the best hair masks for curly hair on our site too.

Step 6: Dry Without the Damage

Once your products are in, resist the urge to touch your hair. Plopping is your new best friend: lay a microfiber towel or T-shirt flat, flip your hair forward onto it, fold the fabric around your curls, and let it absorb excess water for 15–20 minutes. This shortens drying time without disturbing your curl pattern.

After plopping, you can air-dry completely or use a diffuser on the lowest heat and speed setting. When diffusing, cup sections of hair into the diffuser bowl and hold it at the roots for volume. Avoid moving the diffuser around constantly, that's a one-way ticket to frizz.

Step 7: Scrunch Out the Crunch

Wait until your hair is 100% dry, then flip your head forward, add a tiny drop of oil or serum to your palms if you want, and scrunch upward from ends to roots. You'll feel and hear the cast breaking. Keep scrunching until that crunch is gone and your curls feel soft, bouncy, and defined.

This step transforms stiff, crunchy curls into the silky, touchable ringlets you’ve been dreaming of. If you skip or start too early (while your hair is still damp), you'll end up with frizz. Patience pays off.

How to Refresh Curls Between Wash Days

Not every day is a wash day, and it shouldn't be. On non-wash days, refreshing your curls takes just a few minutes.

Lightly mist your hair with water or a diluted leave-in conditioner spray until it's damp (not soaking). Scrunch in a small amount of curl cream or gel to reactivate your product and reshape any flattened sections, then briefly diffuse or let it air-dry and you're good to go. The more you practice, the better your second and third-day curls will look.

Our dedicated page can help you find the right second-day curl refresher for your hair.

Protect Your Curls at Night

What you do before bed matters as much as your wash day routine. Sleeping on a cotton pillowcase creates friction that breaks up curl clumps, which will cause frizz by morning.

The easiest fix is a satin or silk pillowcase, on which your curls will glide rather than snag. Alternatively, try "pineappling" – gathering your hair loosely at the very top of your head in a soft scrunchie before bed to preserve your curl shape. For tighter curl types, a satin bonnet will give you even more protection and could be a game-changer for curl longevity.

Curly Girl Method FAQs

How long does the Curly Girl Method take to show results?

Most people start seeing improvements within 2-4 weeks, but a full curl transformation can take 3-6 months. Your hair needs time to recover from years of harsh products and practices, so it’s important to be patient and stay consistent.

Do I have to give up shampoo completely?

No. While the original CGM recommends co-washing only, modern adaptations recognize that most scalps do need some cleansing. A sulfate-free shampoo is perfectly fine, especially for fine hair or oily scalps.

Can I use heat at all with CGM?

Heat styling is discouraged, but a diffuser on a low setting is fine. If you occasionally use a blow dryer, flat iron, or curling wand, just keep it to a minimum and always use a heat protectant.

What's the difference between co-washing and low-poo?

Co-washing uses a cleansing conditioner with no lather, cleansing gently but maybe not fully removing buildup for all hair types. Low-poo uses a sulfate-free shampoo that lathers lightly. Many curlies alternate between the two depending on the week.

Is CGM only for type 3 curls?

Not at all. The method works across wavy, curly, and coily hair. Type 3 curls tend to see the most dramatic results quickly, but type 2 wavy hair and type 4 coily hair both benefit significantly with the right product adjustments.

Where to Find the Best Deals on Curly Hair Products

Building your CGM starter kit doesn't have to mean spending a fortune. From drugstore products for curly hair to salon-quality finds, there are incredible products at every price point if you know where to look.

Rank & Style's curl product deals page rounds up the best discounts on everything from deep conditioners to diffusers. You can also find current savings at Target, Ulta, and Amazon all in one place. Whether you're stocking up on leave-in conditioner or finally investing in a good diffuser, our deals hub makes it easy to shop smart.

Start Your Curl Journey Today

Your curls were never the problem, they just needed the right routine. The Curly Girl Method isn't about perfection or following a strict set of rules. It's about understanding what your hair actually needs, consistent care, and learning to work with your natural texture, not against it.

Whether you're embracing your curly hair routine for the first time or you're coming back to CGM, the important thing is getting started. Some weeks will have great curl days, others will be mostly pulled-back ponytail days. Both are fine. What matters is showing up for your hair consistently and having the right products and tools to make it easier. Your best curl days are ahead of you!