What Are Exosomes in Skincare? The Ingredient Everyone’s Talking About

If you've been anywhere near the beauty side of Tik Tok lately, you've probably heard people chatting about exosomes. They're the it ingredient everyone from dermatologists to K-beauty brands can't stop mentioning, and they may just live up to the hype. But what even are they? In the simplest terms, exosomes are tiny particles that carry messages between your skin cells—kind of like passing notes in class, except these notes tell your skin to make more collagen and fix up any damage. Research around these little guys is still pretty early, but so far it adds up with the results we’re seeing. This guide breaks down what exosomes actually are, how they work, the different types you'll find in products, and whether they're worth adding to your routine (spoiler: it depends).

Exosomes, Explained

Imagine your skin cells are constantly texting each other. "Hey, there's damage over here!" "We need more moisture!" "Time to make some collagen!" Exosomes are basically those text messages—except instead of words, they're carrying actual instructions and materials your cells need to get the job done.

What Are Exosomes in Skincare?

What makes exosomes different from other skincare ingredients is what happens after they soak in. They don't just hang out on the surface doing their thing. They slip inside your skin cells to deliver the message and supplies we talked about, which essentially talks those cells into acting younger. It's like hiring a really good life coach for your skin—it helps your skin get on track with behaving the way it did ten years ago.

The big selling point is that exosomes tackle multiple problems simultaneously. Most skincare ingredients are good at one thing. Exosomes? They're working on inflammation, collagen, barrier repair, all at once. But whether that actually happens in the serum you're buying is another question entirely.

Where Do Exosomes Come From?

Your body makes exosomes naturally all the time, but the ones in your skincare products come from three main places: 

1. Human stem cells or platelets (which sounds wild but is totally safe when done right)
2. Plant sources
3. Lab-made versions

Each source has its own benefits and limitations, which we'll jump into later.

How Do Exosomes in Skincare Work?

Do exosome serums actually work? Short answer: depends where you're using them and what you're expecting.

The way exosomes work is pretty straightforward—they sink into your skin, find cells that need help, and deliver their packages of helpful ingredients. Once that delivery happens, your cells start behaving differently. They make more collagen, they calm down if they're inflamed, they repair damage faster. It's a domino effect, and it all starts with those tiny messengers showing up and doing their job.

Now, there are two completely different ways to use exosomes in skincare, and which you pick makes a difference in the kind of results you’ll see.

In-Office Treatments

This is where exosomes really earn their reputation. When you go to a dermatologist for something like microneedling or laser treatments, they can apply an exosome serum right after. Those procedures create thousands of tiny holes in your skin—on purpose—which means the exosomes can go way deeper than they ever could on their own. Deeper is the game changer. Your skin heals faster, inflammation goes down quicker, and the boost in collagen is much more noticeable. You're basically giving the exosomes VIP access to the parts of your skin that need them the most.

At-Home Exosome Products

The exosome serums and creams you buy at Sephora or Ulta usually contain plant-based or lab-made exosomes, and they're fine—they just don't have the same punch. They can't get as deep because there's no microneedling opening doors for them. You'll see some benefits: better hydration, a bit more glow, smoother texture. But if you're expecting the dramatic before-and-after results you'd get from a pro treatment, prepare for a let-down. Think of at-home exosome products as a nice addition to what you're already doing, not a miracle cure in a bottle.

Where Do Exosomes Come From? Plant vs. Human-Derived

Not all exosomes are the same. Where they come from makes a huge difference in how well they work, how much they cost, and whether they're right for your skin.

Plant-Derived Exosomes

These come from plants—usually stuff like grapes, bitter melon, or various herbs and fruits. Plant exosomes are gentle, soothing, and full of antioxidants, which makes them great for sensitive skin or anyone who's just dipping their toes into the exosome world. They're also easier to source ethically and don't cost as much.

The downside? They're not as powerful as human-derived exosomes. They'll give you hydration, calm redness, maybe a nice glow, but they're more about maintaining what you've got than turning back the clock.

Human-Derived Exosomes

These are sourced from human cells, but before you freak out, they're not taking them from actual people's bodies. The cells are grown in a lab, and as they grow, they naturally release exosomes. Those exosomes are then collected, purified, and filtered until they're clean enough to put in skincare products.

Because they're from human sources, these exosomes are way better at getting your skin cells to listen. They're stronger at turning up collagen production and repair, which is why brands like Plated, Angela Caglia, and 111Skin use them in their fancy (read: more expensive) serums. These are considered medical or clinical-grade, and the price reflects that.

Lab-Synthesized Exosomes

Some products use exosomes made entirely in a lab. These usually fall somewhere between plant and human in terms of effectiveness, and they're often in products that are trying to hit a middle price point.

Now that you know where exosomes come from, let's break down the different types of products you'll actually see on shelves. These categories are organized by what they're designed to fix—because that's how most people shop. Whether you're targeting aging, dryness, sensitivity, or specific areas like your neck or scalp, there's probably an exosome product formulated for it.